Archaeologists have found the remains of a ‘lost’ castle on a remote Scottish island once home to a wealthy kingdom.
The castle, on the island of Islay, was the centre of power for the Lords of the Isles, a powerful dynasty that ruled over large parts of western Scotland 700 years ago.
This previously unknown castle would have boasted a great hall for feasting, a chapel, workshops, sleeping quarters and more.
Lords of the Isles – strongly associated with Scotland’s MacDonald clan – likely lived in comfort and luxury throughout their reign between the 13th and 15th centuries.
They were separate from the Scottish monarchy, much to the chagrin of the likes of James IV, who largely ruled from Edinburgh[1] and Stirling further east.
This community of semi-autonomous, powerful nobles ruled their own territories in the Western Isles and Highlands.
But they met their downfall in the late 15th century when their fortress was destroyed, leaving the castle and other buildings in ruins.
According to experts, the grand fortress spanned two small islands at Loch Finlaggan, which is an important archeological region on Islay.
New archaeological evidence reveals that a ‘nameless’ royal castle occupied both islands, which was later torn down. Pictured, remains of the castle at Finlaggan
Islands within an island: The fortress, depicted here in the 12th and 13th centuries, spanned across two small islands in a loch at Finlaggan an important archeological site on the island of Islay
New archaeological evidence reveals that a ‘nameless’ royal castle occupied both islands, which were connected by a manmade causeway or bridge.
On the larger island was originally a large stone tower, which provided living quarters and extra security for the king or lord, acting as a lookout.
The tower, estimated to have measured roughly 60ft by 60ft, would make it comparable in size to English castles, such as Carlisle, Bamburgh and Lancaster.
On the other smaller island was a rectangular courtyard, containing kitchens, a chapel with a burial ground, houses, workshops, and a great hall where banquets took place.
Only later did the Lords of the Isles reach the height of their power, in the 14th and 15th centuries, by which time buildings and layout had changed.
Now, the larger island was accessed by boat to a jetty, from which cobbled paths led to the main buildings, including a feasting hall, chapel and private accommodation.
And the castle was likely dismantled by this time, perhaps due to enemy action or because it was structurally unsound.
During the 14th to 15th centuries, the settlement was in its glorious heyday, when the Lords of the Isles ruled the Hebrides and parts of mainland Scotland and Ulster.
Peak of their power: The islands are depicted here in the later medieval period (14th to 15th centuries), showing a more advanced set-up with more buildings
By the 14th and 15th centuries, the larger island was accessed by boat to a jetty, from which cobbled paths lead to the main buildings. Pictured, a cobbled path at Finlaggan
The Lords – featuring descendants from Scotland’s MacDonald clan – enjoyed music, imported wine and even board games, according to historians.
And these powerful chiefs had royal pretensions, treating with English and Scottish kings as if they were on a par with them.
Interestingly, the fortress had little in the way of defensive structures – possibly indicating how secure the MacDonalds felt in the heart of their powerbase on Islay.
However, perhaps largely for these reasons, the fortress was to be short-lived.
Following disputes in the 15th century, the Scottish monarchy ruling to the east sought to curtail the influence of Lords of the Isles.
In the 1490s, James IV of Scotland sent a military expedition to Finlaggan, many of the buildings were destroyed, and over centuries the site sank into relative obscurity.
Now, the historical record for the site itself is meagre and there are no contemporary medieval documents which specifically identify it as a place of any importance.
However, archeological evidence, presented in a new book by academic Dr David Caldwell, confirms Finlaggan as a key centre of power.
Modern-day drone photograph of Finlaggan – note the imprints on the land left by the former buildings
Pictured are remains of the council chamber on the smaller island at Finlaggan, used for meetings and deliberations
Digital reconstruction represents Finlaggan in the early 15th century – a time when it was the administrative and ceremonial centre of the Lords of the Isles
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The book represents nearly 30 years of analysis and archaeological research undertaken at the site from 1989 to 1998, including work by Time Team specialists in 1994.
‘I am privileged to have led a skilled and dedicated team of specialists and volunteers on such an important project on a key place of national significance,’ Dr Caldwell said.
‘The processing of all the data that was gathered has been a major part of my life since the 1990s and I hope I have not only provided an account of interest but also a basis for others to carry out more research in the future.’
Dr Caldwell’s new £40 book, ‘The Archaeology of Finlaggan, Islay’, has been published by the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland.
He will also be delivering a free public lecture about Finlaggan on Saturday, November 29 in Edinburgh and online[2].